Episode Do (two in Hindi): Cruisin' The Backwaters

Vacation. There are few times in our lives when we are truly on vacation. Most times we pack our relaxation schedules so full of fun, meaningful, touristy, and "getting-our-money-worth" activities that we completely miss the whole resting and recovery part altogether. So after soaking up some sun rays and salt water in Kovalam, we were fortunate enough to actually enjoy a genuine time of vacating for 21 straight hours on the backwaters of Kerala aboard a kettuvalllam (converted rice barge). Our houseboat left Alleppey at noon and began serpentining through the vast maze of canals bordered by endless rice paddies and narrow villages.


When we boarded the 50 foot barge, I first noticed that there were 2 other sleeping cabins in addition to ours. After the engines started and we began to pull away from the dock I realized that Jen and I were the ONLY passengers on the boat. The captain, engine operator, and cook were there for no one else but us. It felt very strange to have a crew for our very own personally chartered thatched yacht...


I also wondered how I would keep myself occupied without a book, guitar, computer, etc., etc., etc. It was simply enough to sit, watch and enjoy. A few hands of rummy and lots of fresh pineapple reminded me why we take vacations - to intentionally do nothing and remember that life and love need no props.


The captain was gracious enough to let me steer the boat during a rather wide and straight stretch of the canal. He has no motor controls up front - only a string he pulls that runs to the rear of the boat and rings a bell for the engine operator to hear. They have a code of rings that I never figured out. Of course, if the engine man didn't either, a hearty yell always worked too. The captain did have a single switch under his spoked steering wheel for operating the horn. Yes, it's not just the cars that honk their horns incessantly in India.


The thin, elevated borders hedged with coconut trees between rice fields and canals proved big enough to settle for many workers and families.


The Keralan backwaters are often called the "Venice of the East," though space is certainly not an issue there.


Fisherman, merchants, farmers, and more use both paddle and pole to navigate the backwaters.

A bloomin' lilly! (I think it's a water lilly.)


The sunset and near silence of twilight was the most peaceful moment we experienced in 4 months in India.


And finally, our Christmas star. Since it was December 23rd and 24th, it was only appropriate that we had a Keralan style, holiday decoration accenting our boat. Not only did it help bring Christmas cheer and warm our hearts, it served to distract the mosquitos from sucking our warm, festive blood too.


Jimmy

P.S. Speaking of blood, did you know that leeches secrete an anti-blood clotting chemical into the laceration they create so that blood flows freely even after the leech is removed? Now how would we know that?..... Find out more next time on "Episode 3: Oh Christmas Leech, Oh Christmas Leech..."